![]() ![]() I notched my shaft coupler to allow it to close to 9.6mm, but that introduced eccentricity and I don't recommend doing this - shim it, epoxy it, weld it, whatever you need to do to keep it centered. Check that you are getting a good fit on both shafts. Measure the shaft diameter (mine was about 9.6mm, and that was too small for the 10mm coupler). You may need to hold the output sprocket (I used a vice grip) in order to unbolt the clutch. Remove the bell clutch from the transmission. Once that's in place, you know where the chain will be, and thus where the transmission needs to sit. My new rear sprocket had different mounting holes, so I drilled new holes in it in order to mount it on the existing hub. I spent about $650 altogether on this build, not counting tools and shop supplies. Metal for a bucket holder or basket, and metal for a hitch.An Arduino (to make throttle response of the cheap controller more manageable).A 48v tail/brake light (mine is 4-wire).Some 48v light bulbs for headlights (No 12V components in this build).A battery box (I used a waterproof ammo can).The biggest I found was a 74T (transmission has 11T) A bigger sprocket to reduce RPMs even further.Note that this one was too big for the shaft, go for too small instead. ![]() A shaft coupler to connect the motor to the transmission.I'd recommend not using the one I got but getting a chainless version like this and buying an 11T sprocket for it separately. I used an ATV transmission with minor modifications. I probably went a little overboard with my 1KW/h pack (48v/20Ah), but it lasts for hours and I needed at least 30A continuous output. I wound up using a Vevor 2 KW brushless motor (that's 3 horsepower). I chose a 110cc model and it just happened to be missing an engine!
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